2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

mv75
Impreza WRX Driver
Posts: 748
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:26 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside.

2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby mv75 » Thu May 18, 2017 5:07 pm

Based on: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showth ... ?t=1963588

Let's get started.

What you'll need / what I used:

Things:

- 07/08 Steering wheel. Just get a wheel with buttons.
- Suitable airbag. Now, contrary to the guide, the wheel I got came with a single stage airbag. It had one connection that matched the clock spring connector. So for me, the airbag that suited the wheel is good, no need to buy an extra 05 3 spoke style airbag which I did. Damn yanks and their backwards years and parts.
- 05 clock spring. You'll see what you need in the pictures below.
- 05 or later combination switch skeleton and outer casings. Need this or the clock spring doesn't mount, and the casing is different.
- Suitable wire. I had lots of wire already, I'd say around 22awg or so. It's best to size it up when you have the parts on hand. A few meter lengths of each. Easier to trim than to add.
- Heat shrink, 3, 4mm, electrical tape and cable sleeve.
- 2x Diodes. I had 98 of them left over after my brake light mod, so used those. in5404 if you want to look it up at jaycar.
- PAC swi-rc wheel control interface module. I paid too much at autobarn, but they had them there and then. They come with everything, no patch leads needed.
- Various connectors. I used a few xt60 and 4mm bullet connectors I have in supply. Mostly in wiring the pac controller.
- Tamiya 53539 5.5mm spacers.
- Zip ties.
- 2x 15mm 6mm bolts, nuts and washers.
- 4s lipo battery balance cable.

Tools:

-17mm socket, long and short. All depends on what you have to get clearance to the wheel center nut and to not scrape the wheel with a wrench.
-t30 bit.
-Wire cutters
-Soldering station
-Fine screw driver to be able to remove pins from connectors.
-Screw drivers, - and +
-Breaker bar. Bigger the better. I have one around 800mm-1meter long that I used.
-Ratchet wrench.
-Scalpel / blade, scissors.
-Torque wrench.
-Wheel removal tool.
-Drill and bits from around 2-6mm.
-Multimeter.


- Whatever else I may forget right now.


1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Start by getting the trims all off. Cluster surround, lower dash and wheel shrouds.

3. Remove the airbag, disconnect wires from bag and current clock spring.

4. Remove the wheel. after marking top and having it center, if you want, it won't be center when you install the new wheel unless you have the luck of the gods. Leave the center nut on about half way even if you use the wheel puller tool. That thing bangs off pretty good.

5. Remove the clock spring and combination switch skeleton. Un do the clock spring to harness cable connections and loosen up the big plastic rib clamps / clips on the column that hold the wire bundle. Remove all this stuff from the car.

6. Now you'll need to mod the bracket to suit the new combination switch skeleton. Mark where the new holes should go using whatever method you want. I just eyed it up, marked with a sharpie, then put the new combo skele back on, hole markings were good.

7. Protect the wheel spline with tape or something and lay down any paper you may need to to catch shavings in the area of the bracket. Drill. Start small and go up to around 6mm. Get the following, or a bit better as my left hole drifted and I had to slot it a little:

Image

You can see the new holes are between the original bolt and locator holes. Yes, this will be many moments of why did they not just space the damn thing the same and use the same brackets? Grrrrrrr! This is because of the other reason, why make the holes spaced differently on the clock spring that requires the new skeleton which requires the new holes. ****. Clean up the area of any shavings.

8. Swap the combination switches from your original bracket to the new one. Yes they swap perfectly. I also swapped the top switch as my original was in much better condition.

# Bonus: Advanced screw into plastic method. When screwing back into an established thread in plastics with a metal screw, do the thread drop method. This greatly prolongs the life of the plastic part as you won't be cutting a new thread all the time. What you do is put the screw on the hole and letting just the weight of the driver rest on the screw, turn it anti clock wise, you will hear and feel the screw rise a bit, then suddenly "fall". This means the thread on the screw is matching the thread in the plastic, screw it in. It will be smooth and won't remove more material cutting a new thread. I do this for all metal to plastic screws/bolts.

9. Install new bracket. Use the 2x 15mm bolts / nuts / washers you got to fasten the top two holes. The bottom center is perfect. Put on the new top shroud making sure it fits ok with the extended top bolts., If not, then trim it. It should be ok, I originally had 20mm bolts that fouled against the shroud and cut them down about 5mm each.

10. Take everything inside. Remove the button modules from the new wheel, there are two screws holding the back plastic on, behind those are screws for the button modules on the wheel.

11. Open the clock spring. You'll get the following:

Image

The numbers match the outside pins here:

Image

You need to run wires from those 4 connections in the clock spring. Before starting double check continuity with your multimeter from these contacts to the outside pins. That's what I got. Be careful handling the open clock spring, it's all loose as hell and ready to fall apart in an instant. Yes It's not easy, be good at soldering. And yes, #4 is right next to the airbag wires, and yes, it's the 12v wire. Be careful.

Get that thing back together. Hardest part is done.

For reference of the pins:

1: Audio signal
2: Audio ground
3: Button illumination
4. 12v cruise control.

I sleeved the wires 1-3 together as they go to the car radio area. 4 I just ran along with the main CC harness and airbag wires. Good frigging luck if you can get a wire to be shoved in the main CC harness sleeve unless you re-do it.

12. Now, just unpin the wires from the 07/08 plug.

Image

Cut the connectors off the brown, yellow, green, black and grey.

The wires for this plug and their functions are as follows:

Module Plug Functions
Red 12v Illumination
Black Illumination Ground
Grey Horn
Blue Audio Ground
White Audio Signal
Brown Ground (will become 12v CC signal after modding the module below)
Green Cancel, set/resume
Yellow Enable/Disable CC

13: CC button module.

Open it up, it's just clipped together.

Image

Get rid off the resistors with an X on them. 4 in total.

Now get some wire, I used a 24awg silicone cased wire. Small, flexible and won't melt the casing with heat on it. Bridge them across the connections as follows:

Image

Image

There are my wires and positions as reference. This is important to know when I get to the clock spring wiring. Again, good frigging luck running these up the sleeve there unless you re-sleeve it. I just ran them along side of the thing. Yes, it's a huge pita to get this module back together. But possible. You also need to slot the rubber pad edge to allow the wires to exit the side. Use a scalpel and patience.

14. Green wire and diodes. This is what you need to end up with:

Image

Image

This really is easy. Just intercept the green wire FROM the cc module and connect the ends of the two diodes and the green wire all together into a tri-force of unholy unity. Note the diode stripe orientation. Now those two wires that were added to the cc get connected separately to the other ends of the diodes and continue on their way, they do not stop here, only the green wire stops here. I cut a section out of the red and black wire casings and soldered to the diode ends then covered them all up.

15. Let's wire this up to connect to the clock spring.

Take that 4s lipo balance lead and cut it about half way or so. The female end is the one we need and there are a couple of fine "wings" on the ends of the plug that need to be trimmed. A scalpel takes them off in about a second.

Take the female end of the 4s lipo battery balance cable and hook it up like this:

Image

Now on the plug left to right. The plug is oriented as when you plug it into the clock spring connector:

1. Horn. (ignore for now).
2. To the red wire that you wire on the CC circuit board and passed through the diode.
3. To the black wire that you wire on the CC circuit board and passed through the diode.
4. Yellow.
5. Brown.

So for further reference, the red and black wires are the function(s) of the green wire split up. One is set, one is resume, and both together are cancel.
The yellow wire is Enable/disable CC.
The brown wire is the formally ground wire that is now a 12V CC signal wire.

16. Now let's get the harness finished and looking like this:

Image

Take the red, blue and white wires that still have the original metal pin plugs on them and put some heat shrink on them to look like the picture. 3mm shrink will do.

Hook the original grey horn spade wire to the 1st extra wire on the new harness plug that was mentioned above. Now you have a black that is spare, I put a crimp terminal on it and will put it under one of the screws when you put the wheel backing plastic back on. Don't confuse the black wires, just look at the picture.

Put the wheel together, you can see where I put that black spade:

Image

17. Install the new clock spring. You need to space it out by about 3mm. This is where the Tamiya spacers come in. I used the 2.5mm ones from the set. They work perfectly and leave enough screw thread length. Put the spacers between the clock spring and the combo switch skeleton.

# Extra bonus: I wanted the clock spring wheel posts to be a bit longer too as there is technically another 3mm difference, so I found a bits set from a servo I had that contained long 2.5mm screws, flanges and rubber mounts. I put them all together and just trimmed the corners off the mounts. The screws fit the little holes on the wheel posts on the new clock spring perfectly.

# To center the clock spring: The instructions are on the label, from center you turn it 3.25 (three and a quarter), turns right and should feel it start to bind, then 3.25 back to center. If you don't have center, then just turn it right until you feel it binding at about the 3 o'clock area. Once there, turn it left 3.25 times, it'll be perfect. Tape it down.

18. Install the steering wheel. Now this is another area where you'll say, why the hell didn't they just make it the same? The new wheel has a spline depth of about 12mm where the original wheel is about 15mm. This is why you needed the spacers above as the new wheel doesn't go all the way down the original spline. But it's enough and when you torque the center nut down it's secure.

The center nut torques to 34ft-pounds.

19. Plug the wires into the clock spring. The first 3 pin block, insert in this order: White, blue then red.

White: Audio control signal.
Blue: Audio module / signal ground.
Red : Button illumination.

Push in the main 5 pin plug. I drove it home with a screw driver.

Connect the horn and airbag plug to the airbag module. Then install the airbag module. Watch the wires as you mount it in that they stay inside of the bracket that holds the torx bolts so you don't crush / crimp them. Do up the airbag bolts. I just did them tight.

Reconnect the battery and test the system. Stand outside the car and turn the key to ON, but don't start the car. Watch the airbag light on the dash, it should go out after a few seconds. Success.

20. You should have routed the wires and cables when installing the wheel, plug everything in and run the audio/audio ground and illumination bundle over towards the stereo cubby, route the wires how you see fit and zip tie, etc. Now we'll deal with the extra 12V CC wire you added as #4 earlier to the clock spring.

Look at the plug behind the CC dash button.

Image

This is the plug, I already removed the green/blue wire, but you also want to remove that green/black wire.

Of course you should double check the wires with your multimeter first as well. Basically you want the no voltage one to go to the clock spring black, and the 12V one to go to the new wire run. Check these while they are still in the brown connector with the car at on, but not running. Turn off and remove the key from the ignition.

Now, the green-blue wire goes to the solid black on the harness plug. Just plug that one you removed from the brown plug into the car harness. Done.

The green-black is the 12V wire. This will go into the center spare spot on the plug, just plug that thing in. On the plug from the clock spring you need to now add that left over #4 wire. I just cut the black wire from my old clock spring harness and soldered that to the wire and plugged that in to the new clock spring harness plug. It's all pro stylin' now.

21. Audio and illumination.

For the illumination, I just spliced it to the iso patch lead I have from my original car harness to the stereo. Easy. I also did this for the PAC module power and ground too.

For the audio signal and ground from the wheel controls, follow the pac wiring guide for your radio. Set the thing up as per its instructions.

Mine ended up looking like this:

Image

Neat as. It helps to unpin and bugger off the wires not needed. White and black on that xt60 connector go to my wheel control wires.

Mount and run those wires as you want.

Put all trims back on.

That should be it now. Go drive the car and swear at the fact that the wheel isn't center. Take it off again and try a few more times. I've redone it three times so far, bugger it, close enough for now. The thing doesn't want to go on exactly where I want it to and only in a few specific places it'll drop the splines right. Anyone have a hint to that, post it.

Any specific questions to any part, ask.





Before:
Image

After, TA-DA:
Image
Last edited by mv75 on Sat Jun 03, 2017 12:25 pm, edited 4 times in total.

mv75
Impreza WRX Driver
Posts: 748
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:26 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside.

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby mv75 » Thu May 18, 2017 5:07 pm

Reserved.

REVNURAZR
Probationary Driver
Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2016 5:58 pm

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby REVNURAZR » Tue May 23, 2017 8:41 pm

Do all the cruise/audio controls function on the 06 wheel?

mv75
Impreza WRX Driver
Posts: 748
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:26 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside.

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby mv75 » Wed May 24, 2017 3:17 am

I dunno about the 06, but on this 07, the audio is perfect running through a pac swi rc to my pioneer f950bt. Illumination works great too. I'm currently trying to iron out the CC, Is why I haven't followed this up yet. Sort of lucky / unlucky I have to take the wheel off anyway as it's off center to the right a little.

EDIT: Horn works ok too. :)

For driving this wheel feels a lot better too. I'll have to measure it, but it really does feel smaller than the old one.

REVNURAZR
Probationary Driver
Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2016 5:58 pm

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby REVNURAZR » Thu May 25, 2017 5:52 am

Yeah I meant 07 sorry.

Did you keep the same clock-spring? I had to change it out or it's possible to splice the CC into the old clock spring.

The 03-07 wheels are 10mm smaller in diameter than the Bug MOMO, defiantly feels a lot more.

mv75
Impreza WRX Driver
Posts: 748
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:26 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside.

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby mv75 » Thu May 25, 2017 2:43 pm

I changed the clock spring to an 05. Had to mod the column bracket and also space the clock spring out as I also had to change the combination switch skeleton and the outer surrounds. I have just done some troubleshooting, and it seems all the pins on the middle cc/horn connector, left to right are all going to the 4 pin plug that plugs to the car harness except the last one. It's going to nothing, which is weird as it's an 05 clock spring, why would it go nowhere on its own clock spring harness? The guide has the last one as red on the 05 green plug, 12v switched. I'm now thinking that I may have to do another wire run, from one of the two green wires on the CC dash button. I found that the button on the dash has two green wires that must contact each other to enable/disable the CC. One may also stay live, as when I have the CC button on the dash going, the wheel buttons still don't work. Because of the non existent 12v constant I suppose. I'll check those next time I pull the dash apart again for voltage. I'll also reference this Haynes manual I have here too, it's got some diagrams in it which seem to be good too.

I know now I should have checked all the pins were going somewhere while I had the clock spring apart. Ah well, I'll do it probably on the weekend as I plan on pulling it apart again. I'll tidy up the wires a bit better too since I have a better idea on run lengths now as well. I want to get this spot on before posting a full guide.

At least the main reason I did this is working, wheel stereo controls. :)

Kaoself
Red GD WRX driver
Red GD WRX driver
Posts: 1145
Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2010 12:50 pm
Location: Mt. Waverley

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby Kaoself » Fri May 26, 2017 12:40 am

It looks great! I'm actually a bit jealous of your steering wheel controls; didn't think anything of them until I got back in my bugeye after six weeks in a loan car that had them.

Isn't this an MY08+ wheel though? I thought MY07's had the same steering wheel as the 05's and 06's?
Blue MY02 STi
Former Red MY03 WRX

mv75
Impreza WRX Driver
Posts: 748
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:26 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside.

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby mv75 » Fri May 26, 2017 3:26 pm

I suppose it depends on where you come from. I asked for an 07 and got this. Just as long as it has the wheel controls. :)

I got closer today. Found out through schematic and multimeter that green-black is 12V and green-blue isn't. So roughly wired green-blue to the wheel signal and dodgily held a wire from green-black to the pin connection on the clock spring Red, pressed the cruise button, dash button lit and relay clicked. Pressed again, light off, relay click. Whoo!

Then the 12v wire slipped before I could turn off the ignition, sparks and pops and the car started diagnostics mode for some reason, the rad fans spun up. Damn damn damn, (replace damn with f...), turn off ignition. IT WAS JUST WORKING! dammit. So hooked it all back up, nothing. Button no work. :( Check the green-black, only reading like 3.xx volts. sheet. Thinking modules had blown, I then went to the fuse panel in the car, not a single fuse labelled cruise control. Ok, only way, start at the top, pull, fine, replace, next, about 20 f'n fuses later, then finally get to 2nd last fuse, ta-da! blown. Sticker has it labelled as BACK. WTF is that supposed to be? So f'n retarded. Of course I have everything but a 15a fuse spare in the holder under the bonnet, so had to go to shed and found one. Replaced, test the system again, it works! Phew. At least I know which fuse is for the CC now.

Going to definitely get this fully under way tomorrow now. :)

REVNURAZR
Probationary Driver
Posts: 69
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2016 5:58 pm

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby REVNURAZR » Sat May 27, 2017 1:04 am

Nice work.

Do you have a copy of the schematic at all? I need to do some fault finding on a friends who's no longer works. I'm thinking a clutch switch.

Cheers

mv75
Impreza WRX Driver
Posts: 748
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:26 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside.

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby mv75 » Sat May 27, 2017 3:22 am

Yea man. From here, which is from the link I posted way up top:

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showth ... se+control

Just at step one is someones photobucket link.

It seems pretty on par to being correct. The YG is from the enable/disable illumination on the dash button. Check that bulb first I suppose.

mv75
Impreza WRX Driver
Posts: 748
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:26 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside.

Re: 2007 Steering wheel into 2003 WRX.

Postby mv75 » Sun May 28, 2017 2:22 pm

Well, eureka it works. Ran the 2 green cc switch wires to the clock spring and it's all good. All buttons work. The light on the dash button comes on too. No reason it wouldn't, but there it is. I'll get a full proper guide up soon. Might work for bug as well since I have a first gen blobby.

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