DIY: Rim Painting

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deafwish
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Postby deafwish » Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:14 pm

Done and done! :thumbs: 8)

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Speedway
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Postby Speedway » Wed Aug 01, 2007 5:45 pm

Looks the goods Daz - much better than the stock goldies

Very Very tidy
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Postby grantdlr » Wed Aug 01, 2007 9:18 pm

deafwish wrote:Done and done! :thumbs: 8)

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Prefer the gold wheels on black Daz....

But seriously.. great job with a can!!!

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Electra1STi
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Postby Electra1STi » Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:05 pm

Daz, what Brand & Paint Type (Acrylic?) was the metallic charcoal colour you used?

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deafwish
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Postby deafwish » Sun Sep 09, 2007 5:52 pm

After being disappointed with K&H's new colour mix of the Charcoal Metallic (answering your question above, Z), I bought a can of Motospray Gloss Black Acrylic pressure pack can & a can of K&H acrylic clear coat (not that sheet urethane one!) and repainted them:

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Postby grantdlr » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:29 am

:shock: All it needs now is some more top coat clear..

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Postby Electra1STi » Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:33 am

Speaking of your disappointment with K+H Urethane wheel paints Daz, I used the VHT Clear Coat instead as the final top coat (over an acrylic base colour)... it’s now been over 3 months & still holding up against stone chips & road crud surprisingly well.

Similarly, VHT recommend painting in low humidity & above 21°C ambient air temperature conditions. However, I painted on a below 21°C day & it was still slightly tacky after 24 hours, so likewise it took days to cure to a rock-hard finish. Drove around on the freshly painted wheels after 24 hours, but next time I'll be using the heat gun to aid the curing process.

Also, anyone else noticed that when applying a PU top coat over an acrylic base colour, the high acetone/solvent content of Polyurethane wheel paint seems slightly dissolve your acrylic base colour if you don’t use very light layers, even after the base colour has dried.

Will be interested to see how the K+H Acrylic Clear Coat holds up over time Daz, because these paint manufacturers claim PU is tougher than acrylic.

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deafwish
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Postby deafwish » Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:09 am

grantdlr wrote::shock: All it needs now is some more top coat clear..


I don't want a very high gloss finish.
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Postby grantdlr » Mon Sep 10, 2007 5:22 pm

Why not... you have this great looking gloss black car... and mat wheels... (IMO only... Gloss black would suit your car)


deafwish wrote:
grantdlr wrote::shock: All it needs now is some more top coat clear..


I don't want a very high gloss finish.

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minchia
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby minchia » Wed Jan 14, 2009 12:11 pm

Hey fellas, this is the paint I got. There was no KH gold, so I got the VHT engine enamel gold.. guy at autobarn said this would be ok. I got the KH clear and grey primer.. 4 sheets of fine 1200, cheap dust masks and the tape.. will start next week on my free day - pumped. Just double checking i've got the right stuff.. for $70 if it turns out as good as daz's i'd be happy
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deafwish
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby deafwish » Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:48 am

Can you use a primer & clear coat on top of a heat proof enamel?
I'd be calling K&H to confirm before you decide to start!!!!
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minchia
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby minchia » Sat Jan 17, 2009 1:21 pm

Might have to do that Daz, otherwise i'll have to get the KH white and paint em white instead? :/

I thought you primed it before the gold went on so i'll have to be asking em if the enamel will stick to the primer and the coat will stick to the enamel?
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby Lupin » Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:43 pm

If there is one thing I have learned about engine paint over all these years, is that its designed to stick to almost anything.

Think about it, its designed to stick to oil soaked metal.
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minchia
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby minchia » Sat Jan 17, 2009 3:04 pm

You make a good point lupin.. i'm going to start this monday.. reckon i'll need 2 cans of gold to get 16" stock MY00's done?
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deafwish
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby deafwish » Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:38 am

Lupin wrote:Think about it, its designed to stick to oil soaked metal.


You have to remove the oil before you paint it or the thermal properties of the paint will fail! :clown:
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby Lupin » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:00 am

deafwish wrote:
Lupin wrote:Think about it, its designed to stick to oil soaked metal.


You have to remove the oil before you paint it or the thermal properties of the paint will fail! :clown:


And how do you remove it when its soaked into the metal.

Oh that's right you melt it down and re cast it :roll:

Were not talking about the stuff that sits on the surface, were talking about the stuff that has penetrated the metal and cant be removed.

If you have ever used engine enamel you quickly realize that yes it sticks far better than a normal pain.
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minchia
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby minchia » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:11 am

I'm off to buy another can of paint and some more clear coat (think I got the wrong one)

will post pics when it's done, hopefully all is well :)
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby Lupin » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:14 am

Don't stress too much.

If it goes wrong you rub it back and do it again.

Even Daz managed to work that much out. :lol:
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minchia
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby minchia » Sun Jan 18, 2009 12:17 pm

Hehe I hope I get it right the first time.. don't have many days off like this :)

Spoke to the guy at autobarn he said tomorrow is the perfect day to do it.. 35 degs.. he said he stuffed it because the paint didn't dry.. so more light coats are better than a few heavy.

What I'm wondering is, if it's okay to spray them in direct sunlight or should I do it in the garage?
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minchia
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Re: DIY: Rim Painting

Postby minchia » Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:27 pm

2 down, 2 to go.. tomorrow.. it's far too hot. I'm really happy with the gold.
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