Detailing the Terms Names and Procceses Explained

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Immacreflections
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Detailing the Terms Names and Procceses Explained

Postby Immacreflections » Mon Aug 08, 2011 12:12 pm

Hey Guys,

As some people or most people in general get methods, terms, and processes mixed up or incorrect I have decided to do a know all tell all post on the difference and what is what. I will post in the order that I do a car.

Wheel cleaning: This is self explanatory. I use a few cleaners, my favourite at the moment is Iron-X and use soft wheel face brushes and E-Z reach brushes that have a rubber coated wire and soft bristles

Degrease- This is not a “must-do” but I like to use a citrus degreaser on the lower half of the car and wheel wells. I also use a chem. Degreaser on tires to “pull” dirt out from them. DO NOT LET THESE DRY

Foaming- Most of you know what a foam is and I do this whilst having the degreaser and wheel cleaner on the wheels it allows it to dwell longer without drying.

Rinse- All of the above off and repeat wheel or tires cleaning is needed

Hand Wash- 2 bucket method, this is highly recommended though not always a must either I believe “grit-guards” are a MUST HAVE though. Wash top half of car then bottom half after preferably using a different mitt but not necessary.

Rinse- Again

Clay Bar- This is a special clay used to remove contaminants from your paint and leave it A LOT smoother and nicer. You must use a lube for this to avoid marring the paint and should only be done if you have read and know what you are doing to avoid scratches and marring.

You don’t need a lot of lube as long as the clay isn’t sticking your fine. Leave the car wet from the rinse give it a mist or two and try if it sticks give it another and so forth you should only need 3-4 per panel or half bonnet.

Rinse- Yep again

Polishing- This is a term to describe the use of an abrasive medium generally in the form of a liquid to REMOVE paint from a surface. This is done to remove the scratches by levelling the surrounding paint to the lowest level.

There are many different pad and polish combinations around polishing is as much about the pad choice as it is the polish DO NOT USE MICROFIBRES OR RAGS TO POLISH!

THIS IS HIGHLY RECCOMENDED FOR A PROFFESIONAL AS TO NOT BURN YOUR PAINT OR POLISH THOUGH YOUR PAINT!

Buff- Buffing is using a cloth or microfiber to remove residue left over from polish, paint cleansers, waxes, sealants and quick details. This is not abrasive nor does it have anything to do with the surface your left with except removing residue.

Paint Cleansing- This is not a necessary step but does make a different in the scheme of things. This helps pull out any further residue, oils, and can also help “jewel” your paint or “refine” it to that next level admitably most people wouldn’t tell the difference. It also helps prep the surface for wax and sealants to bond better.

Buff- Off the cleanser

Sealant- Sealants are generally a synthetic that have a higher bonding and are longer lasting than a carnauba wax but do not have as much depth and gloss. Sealants are generally “sheet” water rather than “bead”

Buff- Off the sealant

Wax- Waxes can be synthetic, carnauba, bees. , and other waxes, always a mixture the biggest selling gimmick is 70% carnauba or whatever it is a high percentage.

Carnauba is like cement when 100% and is not workable nor can you apply it to a car. There are different grades of carnauba but I’ll leave that to another day.

Generally that 70% carnauba is 70% by volume which means 70% of the wax content is carnauba which could be only 30% of the total volume or less! Wow now we are under 30% carnauba wax already! Then again some could be 70% of the carnauba is grade 1 white the other is lower grade yellow then the total of that is only part of a mixture that is 30% of total volume so it gets lower again.

Key thing with a wax is remember .5-1 microns of wax is all a layer is, most paints from factory are 150-200microns and resprays up to 500microns but normally around 300-400 microns so your wax layer should only be 1/200th of that! That’s why you do two layers to ensure you got full coverage.

I try to apply the wax in the direction of the wind or water will bead off some say “wanky” but I just do.

Next step is Buff for a final time.

Then stand back review and my favourite thing is getting a bottle of water, once it has cured 2-3 hours after final buff gently pour the water on the panels and watch it bead and sheet like crazy.

Any more questions just ask.

Ps I know this is a long post but I had to do it boring

Hopefully its left no one feeling nervous or :mrgreen:

Regards,

Mitch
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sikmrex
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Re: Detailing the Terms Names and Procceses Explained

Postby sikmrex » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:19 pm

Awesome info.....thankyou!
"What do all men with power want? More power." The Oracle

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L1TEW8
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Detailing the Terms Names and Procceses Explained

Postby L1TEW8 » Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:50 pm

Mate thanks for the info. I know where to go for my next detail. Anyone who goes into such detail like this has to know what they are doing and have passion for it. See you real soon mate
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http://www.wrx.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=73295

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Immacreflections
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Re: Detailing the Terms Names and Procceses Explained

Postby Immacreflections » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:10 am

Thanks guys, Glad to do it for you all to gain some knowledge as car care and products are so confusing sometimes as there is no standard names for products ect.

Look forward to hearing from you L1TE.
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