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WRX immobilizer Brant removal - DYI

Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 5:32 pm
Hi All,
After 3 times the immobilizer anti hijack system immobilized by WRX buggy I decided to remove it. The module and keypad were replaced but the system was not behaving as it should and was some times going into anti hijack mode automatically. I called Subaru and they were going to charge $80 to disable it. As a qualified mechanic I decided to have a look into removing the system from the car myself - complete success, the immobilizer had been COMPLETELY removed. If you are savvy with cutting and joining vehicle electrical wires then its fairly straight forward. If anyone wants to know how to remove the immobilizer contact me.
AGWRXBUGGY good post posting.php?f=16&mode=post&sid=7439434d03e06e1196c5cb6efdabc566#

Re: WRX immobilizer Brant removal - DYI

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 12:38 pm
by jetmf
Hmm, I would take that into consideration, how's your car's performance now? is it better?

Re: WRX immobilizer Brant removal - DYI

Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:24 pm
Hi jetmf,
The car is now perfect after 1 month of removing the brant system. one notable change is the car starts properly after long runs in hot weather. The brant system cuts the starter wire on the steering column and joins the 30amp cut wires to <30amp wires on the brant. The starter system has been restored back to 30amp.
The car is now the same if you purchased one from OS and starts every time no questions asked.

Re: WRX immobilizer Brant removal - DYI

Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 2:28 pm
Also as a side note I also just replaced the standard and broken turbo inlet pipe with a new 5 layer silicon unit. Performance and economy have greatly improved.

Re: WRX immobilizer Brant removal - DYI

Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2016 7:57 pm
For those how have see my original post and a are interested in removing the Brant immobilizer below is a summary of what was performed.
Please note# the Brant wires are all black and are easily identified and foreign cables. There is 2 immobilizer modules under the right dash area and 1 behind the center console dash panel on the left side of the stereo. The immobilizer wiring spans under the bonnet, under dash drivers and passengers sides.

You will require as a minimum:
Soldering gun and thin solder wire
Good quality black electrical tape
Thin nose pliers
Side cutters
Phillips head #2 screw driver
10mm and 12 mm spanners

***Under the bonnet:
Disconnect the negative battery terminals
Remove the alarm siren, bonnet open sensor and associated wiring. If you don't have the disable key for the siren have a bucket of water handy and some ear muffs. If it goes off after disconnecting it throw it in the water and have a laugh at the dying sound.
***Inside - drivers side:
Remove the steering column under tray panel - 1 clip on the drivers side door area and 2 phillips screws at the bottom of the panel
Steering column - there is a short jumper harness and 1 wire cut and soldered to 2 immobilizer wires (starter motor), another wire joined to an immobilizer wire.
Remove the jumper harness and reconnect the original connectors.
Cut the immobilizer wires from the starter wires, solder a new 30 amp piece of electrical wire (I used a piece of the jumper harness) and rejoin the starter wire
Cut the immobilizer wire from the other car wire, the original car wire was not cut in this case so cut the immobilizer wire as close to the original car wire then insulate with electrical tape

Up towards the upper right dash is the door remote lock module, it has a jumper harness attached, disconnect the jumper harness and rejoin the original connectors.

*** Inside passenger side:
Remove the passenger side glove box under tray and foot well kick panel and scuff plate
Lift the carper to expose a metal panel which protects the ECU, remove the protector panel using a 10mm spanner
At the ECU you will see 4 immobilizer wires, 2 are joins to 2ECU harness wires, these 2 wires are not cut, just exposed and joined. The other 2 immobilizer wires attach to ECU harness wire that is cut, this is the fuel cut system.
Cut the 2 immobilizer wires from the non cut ECU wires as close to the join, tap an insulate the wires.
Cut the 2 immobilizer wires from the cut wire, rejoin the cut wire and solder and tape

***Center Console area:
Remove the stereo facia and stereo, on the left side you will see the 3rd immobilizer module, remove it and the wiring harness, it is not attached to the vehicles wiring at all.
Remove the keypad if its installed on the center console, mine was just under the hand brake.

At this point reconnect the battery, check that the engine light comes on and start the car. Remove the Brant wiring harness and refit all interior panels.
If you are not sure about performing the above take this information to a qualified auto electrician.