MY02 Brant Removal - The Complete Guide

Learner Driver
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Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2016 11:40 am

MY02 Brant Removal - The Complete Guide

Postby not_tuned_MY02 » Sat Jul 02, 2016 2:53 pm

After many years of experiencing trouble with the failing Brant immobiliser, I finally got motivated to remove it completely from my MY02 that I have owned since new! I rarely make posts, but I'm so annoyed at this system for giving me so much grief for so long, I post this guide to help others avoid the same frustration! :hairpull: At first I tried the bypass method as described by the infamous YouTube vid, but that was not the complete fix - despite what is claimed in that vid the fuel pump relay is interrupted by a second box and the system still interacts with the remote locking system. After I did the "relay jumper" method, the fuel pump was still interrupted by the other control box of the Brant system on the passenger side and the car would intermittently experience a fuel cut while driving. A very dangerous situation!!!! You MUST REMOVE ALL Brant Components to be completely effective. This restores the car back to original factory immobiliser (only), that functions perfectly fine.


This is a description of Brant removal from a WRX MY02 06/2002.
The Brant immobiliser has 4 main components and locations:
1) the driver side relay box
2) the passenger side control box
3) the under bonnet siren, bonnet tamper switch and "motion" detector switch
4) the console keypad

All these locations are relatively easily to get to, and in total takes about 3 hours work to remove the Brandt.

Disclaimer: This method worked for my car. Follow this guide at your own risk.

Step 1 - Remove the Relay Box
a) Remove the driver side panel below the steering column. It is attached by two phillips head screws on the bottom edge and one press-in pin around in the door jam edge. Swing the bottom outward and pull out the panel from the top clips. This will expose the relay box. Remove the relay box bracket with a 10mm socket drive.
Note: You see in the foreground of the image, the key switch bypass harness (Subaru part SAA9003). This was fitted in process of fault finding the trouble caused by the Brant. It remains in place!

b) unplug the black wire harness from the relay box.

Step 2 - Re-join the factory wires of Relay box harness

a) The Relay box wires go across to the close by Subaru Fuel Pump Controller. Locate the Brant wires break in points. Cut them away and re-join original factory wires, colour-to-colour, by soldering. You will need a solder iron with grunt, because some are heavy gauge wires. Tape up the exposed joins.

b) Trace the Brant black Harness up behind the dash to the cabin siren. Mine was cable tied to the bonnet cable. Remove it. remove the wire to the Brant LED installed at the Intercooler switch blanking plate. I left the LED in place.

c) trace the Brant harness to a white Subaru box that is the remote locking control box. Unplug the two Brandt plugs and re-plug the factory plug into the white box.

Step 3 - Re-join the remote lock wires
a) Remove the driver's door sill side trim. Its held in by two plastic carpet screws and a press-in pin. Trace the Brant wires down into the factory harness at the driver side front door opening A pillar. Two of the factory wires are spliced together. They are a bit of a task to de-solder and pull apart. Just cut them and re-join them colour to colour.
Note: there is a factory harness black wires and male-female plug near here that you will find not plugged together. Do not re-join. Leave these wires un-plugged!

Step 4 - Re-join the fuel pump relay wire
a) remove the passenger side foot well kick panel trim. Behind it you will find a silver cylinder shape relay. Find the cut-in point of the Brant wiring. Remove the plug from the relay for easy working access. Cut the Brant wires away leaving some Brandt wire length the reach the original wire for solder re-join. Tape-up the bare solder join and re-plug into relay.

Step5 - Remove Brant Controller box wires from Factory ECU Harness
a) Pull back the passenger side foot well carpet and remove the ECU protector metal cover.

b) Locate the cut-in points of the Brandt wires in the factory wiring. You will need to unwrap about 30cm of insulation tape to expose the wires. Cut the Brant wires away, leaving enough wire length to make a re-join to the original factory wires, colour to colour. Remove the 2 Brant earth lugs on the bottom ECU bracket.

c) Locate the Brandt controller above the passenger foot well. Mine was cable tired to the dash support beam. Disconnect the flat cable and coil back behind the centre console. The flat cable goes to the centre console keypad. I left mine in place so it looks like the Brant is still installed and is to hard to pull out the console and possibility of damage to console during removal of the keypad double sided tape.

d) Before you get excited that it's all complete, check that all wires of the Brant are free and removed. I found a heavy gauge earth wire running across the dash, that I had to remove the glove box to get to attachment point.

Step 6 - Remove under Bonnet components
a) Remove the bonnet tamper switch located on left side inner guard and pull pack wires

b) Remove the back-up siren located on fire wall and pull back wires

c) Remove or cut away the motion senor located under the turbo controller, right side in front of strut tower.

d) Cut off connectors and pull wire back into cabin.

Step 7 - Refit all trims and components

a) refit the carpet, glove box, trims.
b) Take joy as you bin your troublesome immobiliser :cheer:

Learner Driver
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:08 am

Re: MY02 Brant Removal - The Complete Guide

Postby Lynchwhy » Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:25 pm

this guide was so extremely helpful! thank you! if you're every near the Forster area, please let me buy you a beer!

i did this on an 04 WRX and it was ever so slightly different but once you get the idea of what you're supposed to be doing, you will probably figure it out.

EDIT: the reason i had to do this: bought the car as a wreck to take on the track, the owner had since passed on and his son who i bought the car off never knew the code. subaru said they could help me if i took the car to them...waste of resources so i tackled it myself. the amount of cabling that you remove is epic!

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