Shoot away any questions on this field

Shoot
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Postby Shoot » Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:30 pm

sorry i meant what brand of film do you use eg johsons film

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tinter
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Postby tinter » Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:44 pm

Got that film in stock Shoot....Johnson's high performance SP 35 Silhouette but a couple of points to be made about it.

1. It will screw radio AM in late model WRX/Liberty/Forester's.
2. It is not colour stable.
3. It has had issues with rear screens going "murky" which has meant optical clarity and vision lost.

The Onyx and Charcool are manufactured by one of the biggest and oldest solar control film companies in the USA being Madico and are my favourites. Tried and tested.

I also have 3M, Bekaert and Sungard.
Rob. :wink:

Shoot
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Postby Shoot » Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:55 pm

yeah i was just making sure it was not johnsons, as i dont like that kinda film.


it not a wrx, but how much to tint a rx7 series 5 ( trims are off)

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tinter
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Postby tinter » Fri Apr 07, 2006 7:32 pm

That top of the range version of theirs is very reflective too.
Not my cup of tea compared to either of the other 2 but it can look "neat" on silver cars.
Rob.

Shoot
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Postby Shoot » Fri Apr 07, 2006 7:37 pm

its a silver car, and most liky be a show car

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tinter
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Postby tinter » Fri Apr 07, 2006 7:52 pm

Well if the car is never to be driven on the streets, then a fully reflective mirror could be the go for display purposes only.
I did a Ford like that for the Melbourne Motor Show 2 years ago in it.
Ford Broadmeadows loved it.
Rob.

Shoot
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Postby Shoot » Sat Apr 08, 2006 1:25 pm

yeah i saw that car look look ok:)


how much for normal tint ?

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tinter
Enzo Tait
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Postby tinter » Sat Apr 08, 2006 1:56 pm

About $352.

Shoot
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Postby Shoot » Sun Apr 09, 2006 8:31 pm

can i ask what is the differnce between you and other tint places ??

as there a hugh price diffrence


3 window car ( yes the back looks like a beach)

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tinter
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Postby tinter » Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:11 pm

1. 30+ years experience where I do it all.
2. Custom directional fitting off the roll.
3. Not pressured to get your car out the door in an hour.
4. Full trim removal so film is anchored right to the bottom of the glass.
5. Custom top edge fitting with all film templated rather than just whacking it on the outside and scribing around the glass.
6. Colour stability in the product.
7. Hardest scratch-resistant coating going.
8. Supplying the world's foremost leader and inventor of solar film from the USA.
9. A lifetime warranty system covering both material and labour and one where the distributor doesn't put obstacles in the way when approached with a claim.
10. Finest optical clarity that is not grainy....many are.
11. Backup service second to none in the event of a repair or accident.
12. No one other than I touches the car. (Would you like yours joy ridden?)
13. A pressure sensitive adhesive that doesn't wrinkle or bubble.
14. A film that doesn't delaminate over time.
15. Would you like an apprentice working on your car pulling it apart hoping things go back correctly and not broken?
16. Windows can be used immediately.
17. TSER (total solar energy rejection) better if not equal to anything on the market given the same VLT. (Visible Light transmission)
18. Honest with integrity.
Found a $50 note the other day in car down beside a seat and gave it to an absolutely thrilled customer who didn't know it was there.

That should about do it but remember it's not that I'm expensive, it's the others are cheap.

Thanks for the question.
Rob. :wink:

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Postby Shoot » Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:51 am

ok sounds good one more question


do you wet or dry shrink ?

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tinter
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Postby tinter » Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:52 am

You sure you're not a tinter part time? :lol:
Makes no difference despite conjecture of both systems.

What's your take of the huge failure rate of rears that have been over heated that causes ghosting and premature adhesive failure? :roll:

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Postby Shoot » Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:54 pm

nar not a tinter


but no a bit, wet shrink on cold night ( where i live) you can sometimes see the shrink marks. dont realy want that :(

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tinter
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Postby tinter » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:06 pm

Well the reason that has happened is due to the fact that the particular film you have on your car can't take high temperature extremes.

If you've got marks you can see, you have the beginnings of "tint cancer" and sadly it's terminal.
It's going to get a lot worse than that currently noticeable.
Take it back to where it was done.

Rob.

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ugRage
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Postby ugRage » Thu May 18, 2006 7:41 am

Hi, my rear demister is blowing the fuse... thinking its the tint the previous owner got put on it shorting it or something, is this possible or am i totally wrong?
RS Liberty Turbo

borsiu
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wrx my06 tint

Postby borsiu » Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:50 pm

Hi Rob, could you PM me a price for a wrx my06 legal darkest tint you do

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SleeperGT
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Postby SleeperGT » Fri Jul 14, 2006 9:24 pm

Rob, does the darkness of the tint have any affect on reducing heat transfer into the cabin?

I'm probably going against what most people seem to want with a tint, and do not like the look of dark tints at all, but I do want the benefit of UV filtering, glare reduction and keeping heat down in summer.

What options are there?
MY05 Liberty 3.0R spec. B

nobody calls me Lebowski. You got the wrong guy, I'm the dude, man

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tinter
Enzo Tait
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Postby tinter » Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:13 pm

SleeperGT wrote:Rob, does the darkness of the tint have any affect on reducing heat transfer into the cabin?

I'm probably going against what most people seem to want with a tint, and do not like the look of dark tints at all, but I do want the benefit of UV filtering, glare reduction and keeping heat down in summer.

What options are there?


Hi Sleeper,
The darker the film, the higher the glass temperature adsorption percentage. If a breeze is around or air movement generated by travelling causes the passage of air to dissipate the absorbed energy within the glass, then darker films do have an advantage over some other films.

Metal films work differently by reflecting more heat from the glass surface and don't absorb as much.

There are light very specific light films that are "spectrally selective."
ie. they allow visible light to transmit (not making the car dark at all) but take out the infra-red and UV part of the spectrum only.

These films are not much chop for glare reduction because light from the sun is what causes glare.
The darker the film, the lower the light, the lighter the film the higher glare problem.
You can't have it both ways there.

Options? This depends entirely on your preference as to what you want to achieve first and foremost.
Sounds like a light film which would give a subtle cosmetic appearance is the way to go.

Rob.

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SleeperGT
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Postby SleeperGT » Sat Jul 15, 2006 8:23 am

thanks Rob, I'll give you a call on Monday.

This is for the Honda Odyssey I PM'd you earlier about. What I'm trying to achieve is (1) Minimising heat transfer into cabin - as you know these cars have a LOT of glass so will need all the help it can get.
(2) Aesthetics - I want the tint to enhance the appearance with style and class
(3) Glare reduction

Sounds like it'll end up being a compromise
MY05 Liberty 3.0R spec. B



nobody calls me Lebowski. You got the wrong guy, I'm the dude, man

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tinter
Enzo Tait
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Postby tinter » Sat Jul 15, 2006 11:25 am

It will look fine.

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