how hard is it change springs?

silver01
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how hard is it change springs?

Postby silver01 » Sat May 06, 2006 9:41 am

hi all! just wondering if any one has changed their springs themselves? i have a set of lows to go in and wouldn't mind having a crack myself!
or should i not even go there?
any advise?
cheers damian :wink:
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Morgs
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Postby Morgs » Sat May 06, 2006 1:02 pm

Not hard, you just need some good quality spring compressors.
3 nuts at the top of the strut, hang brake caliper away, 2 bolts though the bottom of strut assembly and it will come out.
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Mr Corduroy
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Postby Mr Corduroy » Sat May 06, 2006 3:57 pm

Morgs wrote:Not hard, you just need some good quality spring compressors. . .


Don't gloss over this bit. The cheap ones I have are two separate screws and they can move dangerously when the spring is under compression. I guess a picture would help!
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HighLife
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Postby HighLife » Sat May 06, 2006 4:33 pm

I'm not sure if its different on later models but when I did my MY00, the hardest part was trying to undo and then re-tighten the nut at the top of the strut shaft for the top plate holding the spring as the shaft wants to turn. It wouldnt be a problem with the proper tools :wink:

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Mr Corduroy
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Postby Mr Corduroy » Sat May 06, 2006 8:22 pm

HighLife wrote:. . . the hardest part was trying to undo and then re-tighten the nut at the top of the strut shaft for the top plate holding the spring as the shaft wants to turn. . .


I agree. I had the same problem on both a Mazda and BMW. Some struts have machined flats on the shaft above the nut so you can stop the shaft from turning.

But when they don't, what is the right tool?

I suspect the smartest thing is to loosen the nut before you jack up the car. The extra load and friction on the bearing helps a bit.
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Postby blackrex » Sat May 06, 2006 8:34 pm

Best way to do it usually is with a rattle gun, they tend to, through their action of multiple blows, crack the nut instead of turning the shaft.
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silver01
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Postby silver01 » Sun May 07, 2006 3:25 pm

Mr Corduroy wrote:
HighLife wrote:. . . the hardest part was trying to undo and then re-tighten the nut at the top of the strut shaft for the top plate holding the spring as the shaft wants to turn. . .


I agree. I had the same problem on both a Mazda and BMW. Some struts have machined flats on the shaft above the nut so you can stop the shaft from turning.

But when they don't, what is the right tool?

I suspect the smartest thing is to loosen the nut before you jack up the car. The extra load and friction on the bearing helps a bit.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

thats what lupin did only took less than two hours and whole car was done! awsome job lupin thanks mate!
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Postby MrEs » Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:28 pm

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